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I use large microscope slides from Ted Pella for cover glass, and Norland NOA107 UV cured adhesive for capping photopolymer holograms.

Are you sure the glass is tempered, I’ve broke a few of these and by the way the glass brakes I’ll say “it’s not tempered?”. If this is true pre cut phone glass, apply and easily grind the thin edges?

great question, I was trying to find something to seal the hologram polymer, right now the only thing out there in our area is iphone tempered glass that has a 2 sided adhesive only know by China and in using that your stuck with size, I was trying to find something so you could use it in art pieces, watches, pendants and display .... uv resin and wipe-on poly seals the hologram so I hope this helps ....

Thanks for this interesting info. What is the point of using UV glue to laminate the film on both sides? I mean, the side with the photopolymer already sticks to the glass plate by itself, right? Is it to have it more permanently afixed? Or is it that using UV resin makes it easier to laminate without bubbles?
Sorry if the questions are dumb, on my side I have so far only used laminated polymer on the plate without any resin and never considered sandwiching it between two glass plates

ok I have found 3 things that work with the polymer, and one that works but shifts

1 vu resin

2 Hot Crystalline Clear Museum Wax (thin coat)

3 Lexel clear gule

4 3M 300LSE shifts 1 wave length

anyone find anything else

[quote=dannybee post_id=72424 time=1626903289 user_id=2167]
No still the old batch, it seem the polymer is very stable, it's based on 2 layers the resin and the molymer with dye and borax at lest that what I understand from read the paper on it , so it's only when exposed to light that the 2 layers mix
[/quote]

Yes, it is very stable while unexposed. But, once exposed, there have been reports of instability. Some optical engineers and I think it may have to do with low oxygen levels.

By the way, Danny, I have the full tech specs on Bayfol. let me know if you want it.

No still the old batch, it seem the polymer is very stable, it's based on 2 layers the resin and the molymer with dye and borax at lest that what I understand from read the paper on it , so it's only when exposed to light that the 2 layers mix

Looks promising Danny, is this the new batch of Bayfol ?

a small shift horizontally because my squeegee wasn't even but it hold a promise of one way to work polymer in to art pieces, like pendants and other things

[attachment=0]test-full-color.jpg[/attachment] this is a fast test of a full color holo done in polymer sealed between 2 sheets of glass with uv resin