Holographyforum.org / holowiki.org

if the plate and the object is one, then their should be no movement... usually what I do is start out with a steal plate mount the 3 prongs to the steal plate the gule or tacky wax object to plate ... then tap every thing to make everything is solid... so now the object and steal plate and glass plate is one.. we all need to make shure this is true ... I know you already know this Tony... always good to check and recheck

I want pictures of your progress. Think of the children!! Think of the wiki!!!

Many thanks guys

People have used coins clipped to the holographic plate itself to check if it's system or object movement. Try that in addition to Jeff's suggestions.

Replace the model with another that's solid as a rock. One that you know won't move. Do exposures for the same length of time as you're doing now.

If there's no motion issues in the resulting hologram you know it's that model you're currently working with that's the problem. If there is motion issues that tells you there's other problems on the table. Once those are fixed you'll able to tell if the real model is also moving by doing the same test again.

I've tryed shooting a couple of objects the last few months. One resin and another plaster. These were bust and in both cases I saw some sort of movement.

Has anyone else had this kind of problem? You would think the objects would not move.
I use 458nm and the power at the object is like 1-2mw so I doubt that I am heating. 4 minute exposures
I do glue with 5 minute expoy to hold them on to a base and have been told this could be a problem but i have a hard seeing it as a problem.
I used thick glass and thin, big plates and small

What I do now is place a hard steel post on the corner of my plate. When i shoot and process I check if the post moves then it could be a mode hop or a general movement.

Thanks all