Hi!
Here is my first holographic "hello world".
I have just tested JDS laser from Holomaker (http://holoforum.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=265) with home-made DCG emulsion.
Sloopy coating, sloopy glass cutting(it worked so well when trying in normal light...), poor handling(emulsion damage occurred during the developing), lots of spilled light but there is an image:D.
Looks very milky, virtually opaque, already vanishing slowly after night in the zip-bag, but here it is:D
Some technicalities:
100:14:3 for H2O,Gel (Knorr, culinary),KDI,
Coating with Meyer Bar (improvised),
Developing:
30s with JDS laser, water,20%isopr,50%isopr,100%isopr.
One of holos is made with 60s, but it is hard to notice any difference, and it looks better in real live)
Marcin
Very first DCG Trial, with JDS laser
Very first DCG Trial, with JDS laser
- tr1.jpg (39.46 KiB) Viewed 3369 times
-
Johnfp
Very first DCG Trial, with JDS laser
Not bad at all for a first try. Congratulations. If you dont mind, I am going to make a few suggestions.
Are you using a bug light bulb (like 15 - 25 watt) for a safe light. DCG is really dumb to light and you can work in a very fair amount of light. WAY WAY more then silve halide. You could actually work in white light (15 - 25 watt). The non coherent light will just harden your emulsion a little which is fine. This should give you ample light for your cutting.
If you are doing a meyer bar coating on a large plate and then trying to cut it, why not try this technique. Let me describe it. Take your large glass plate and score it into cuts you want to make but dont break the cuts. This is done on the plate glass and you can do it under bright light. Example - take a 8 x 10 and score it into 4 - 4x5's. Then coat on the non scored side. After the large plate is dry, then you can break at the score lines in the lesser light. I used to leave some borders on the large glass as below such that each 4 x 5 plate was very even coated from edge to edge and just get rid of the border. 12 x 12 glass to make 4 - 4x5's.
90% alcohol is cheap and can be bought over the counter. I would use a 90% prior to your 100% to get most of the water out of your hologram prior to putting in the 100% to help save and maintain your 100% longer. If you go from 50% to 100%, then your 100% will be getting a lot of water from the 50% and wont be 100% for very long. If you cant buy 90% easily and cheaply, then when you think your 100% is depleted, use it as the bath just prior to the new batch of 100%.
If it's vanishing in a sealed baggie, then for sure you did not get all the water out. Blow dry it after the last alchol bath really, really, really, really hot and heavy. I used to keep my blow dryer so close to the film that it would blow the built in overheat breaker in the hair dryer. So i kept a second hair dryer on hand. And sometimes that would take a good 5 - 10 minutes. You cannot overdry but you can surely underdry. The nature of DCG, the dryer you get it, the more resistant it is to abosorbing moisture. I have a few not sealed that are still around today after a few years and they have been subject to flooding down the basement, no dehumidifyer (I need due to the nature of my basement, not necessarily for holography), hot cold..etc. So again, if the image is disapearing, reprocess it and dry the heck out of it.
Keep up the good work!
Are you using a bug light bulb (like 15 - 25 watt) for a safe light. DCG is really dumb to light and you can work in a very fair amount of light. WAY WAY more then silve halide. You could actually work in white light (15 - 25 watt). The non coherent light will just harden your emulsion a little which is fine. This should give you ample light for your cutting.
If you are doing a meyer bar coating on a large plate and then trying to cut it, why not try this technique. Let me describe it. Take your large glass plate and score it into cuts you want to make but dont break the cuts. This is done on the plate glass and you can do it under bright light. Example - take a 8 x 10 and score it into 4 - 4x5's. Then coat on the non scored side. After the large plate is dry, then you can break at the score lines in the lesser light. I used to leave some borders on the large glass as below such that each 4 x 5 plate was very even coated from edge to edge and just get rid of the border. 12 x 12 glass to make 4 - 4x5's.
- ScoredPlate2.jpg (8.15 KiB) Viewed 3350 times
If it's vanishing in a sealed baggie, then for sure you did not get all the water out. Blow dry it after the last alchol bath really, really, really, really hot and heavy. I used to keep my blow dryer so close to the film that it would blow the built in overheat breaker in the hair dryer. So i kept a second hair dryer on hand. And sometimes that would take a good 5 - 10 minutes. You cannot overdry but you can surely underdry. The nature of DCG, the dryer you get it, the more resistant it is to abosorbing moisture. I have a few not sealed that are still around today after a few years and they have been subject to flooding down the basement, no dehumidifyer (I need due to the nature of my basement, not necessarily for holography), hot cold..etc. So again, if the image is disapearing, reprocess it and dry the heck out of it.
Keep up the good work!
Very first DCG Trial, with JDS laser
Hi John!
Thanks for the tips!
I was blown away by how easily "something" appeared after first try- and that it is quite bright. I expected long fight with tons of variables that I have read about in new and old forums.
Especially that the table was not tested, same with coating, gelatin etc
Now I want to explore more!!
Coating on pre-cuted plates sounds like very nice idea- I will try it for sure. Other way would be the DnS with coating in comfortable conditions and then sensitizing. So many things to try.
As for safe-light, during the emulsion preparation and coating I have used diverged laser pointer+some red diodes from the borrowed stirring plate were useful. During exposure there was a lot of green laser light scattered from the shutter- bright to work, but it seams that not so much power/cm2 to cause problems (probably silver material would be fogged during 5min settling time). That will be something to improve for sure.
I'll post progresses when they come!
Marcin
Thanks for the tips!
I was blown away by how easily "something" appeared after first try- and that it is quite bright. I expected long fight with tons of variables that I have read about in new and old forums.
Especially that the table was not tested, same with coating, gelatin etc
Now I want to explore more!!
Coating on pre-cuted plates sounds like very nice idea- I will try it for sure. Other way would be the DnS with coating in comfortable conditions and then sensitizing. So many things to try.
As for safe-light, during the emulsion preparation and coating I have used diverged laser pointer+some red diodes from the borrowed stirring plate were useful. During exposure there was a lot of green laser light scattered from the shutter- bright to work, but it seams that not so much power/cm2 to cause problems (probably silver material would be fogged during 5min settling time). That will be something to improve for sure.
I'll post progresses when they come!
Marcin