Hello
Here are my first Lippmann plates, made with Geola's PGF-03:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIV2T1b ... zt3tl1x1Pw
Hope you like them
Kind regards
Filipe Alves
First Lippmann Plates
First Lippmann Plates
I definitely like them! Looks like they were processed in GP2 as Valery has been suggesting in the Issues with Developing thread!
"We're the flowers in the dustbin" Sex Pistols
First Lippmann Plates
Hello Ed,
Thanks
I used Pyro and Ammonia for developing.
The developing is strange, seeing through the developed plate one can see a positive image instead of a negative one. Why does this happen?
Just read a bit about this developer, and I conclude that unintentional Lippmann plates have been done throughout history when using this developer, it showed up as a "green fog".
Read here about the green fog issue in Pyro and Ammonia developer:
GREEN FOG. The surface of the film shows a peculiar brilliant green or yellowish-green lustrous appearance, generally in patches, when examined by reflected light, but is more or less distinctly pink when the plate is looked through. This effect is rarely observed except when pyro-ammonia has been used as the developer, and it most frequently occurs with old plates, especially if development has been long continued or has been forced by the addition of comparatively large quantities of ammonia.
If the green fog is only slight it does not affect the prints made from the negative, but in bad cases the prints have a patchy appearance and are less deeply printed at those points where the green fog is worst. Two methods are available for the removal of green fog.
In one of these the plate, after being fixed and washed, is placed in a hypo solution of half the strength of the ordinary fixing bath, and to this hypo solution is added a very small quantity of a solution of potassium ferricyanide, and the mixture is allowed to act on the plate for some time, the dish being rocked occasionally. The green fog will gradually disappear and some more of the ferricyanide may be added, if necessary, to secure this end, but it is important to keep the proportion of ferricyanide as low as possible, otherwise the image itself will be reduced. For this reason, if it is seen or suspected that the green fog is likely to be bad, development should be carried a little farther than usual in order to allow for the slight reduction that accompanies the removal of the green fog.
The other plan is to immerse the plate in a dilute solution of ferric chloride (perchloride of iron) until the green fog has been completely bleached, then wash, first in a dilute solution of oxalic acid and afterwards in water, and finally treat with a developer, preferably ferrous oxalate. The green fog is converted into a very fine grey deposit which is almost invisible and has no appreciable effect on the printing qualities of the negative.
Thanks
I used Pyro and Ammonia for developing.
The developing is strange, seeing through the developed plate one can see a positive image instead of a negative one. Why does this happen?
Just read a bit about this developer, and I conclude that unintentional Lippmann plates have been done throughout history when using this developer, it showed up as a "green fog".
Read here about the green fog issue in Pyro and Ammonia developer:
GREEN FOG. The surface of the film shows a peculiar brilliant green or yellowish-green lustrous appearance, generally in patches, when examined by reflected light, but is more or less distinctly pink when the plate is looked through. This effect is rarely observed except when pyro-ammonia has been used as the developer, and it most frequently occurs with old plates, especially if development has been long continued or has been forced by the addition of comparatively large quantities of ammonia.
If the green fog is only slight it does not affect the prints made from the negative, but in bad cases the prints have a patchy appearance and are less deeply printed at those points where the green fog is worst. Two methods are available for the removal of green fog.
In one of these the plate, after being fixed and washed, is placed in a hypo solution of half the strength of the ordinary fixing bath, and to this hypo solution is added a very small quantity of a solution of potassium ferricyanide, and the mixture is allowed to act on the plate for some time, the dish being rocked occasionally. The green fog will gradually disappear and some more of the ferricyanide may be added, if necessary, to secure this end, but it is important to keep the proportion of ferricyanide as low as possible, otherwise the image itself will be reduced. For this reason, if it is seen or suspected that the green fog is likely to be bad, development should be carried a little farther than usual in order to allow for the slight reduction that accompanies the removal of the green fog.
The other plan is to immerse the plate in a dilute solution of ferric chloride (perchloride of iron) until the green fog has been completely bleached, then wash, first in a dilute solution of oxalic acid and afterwards in water, and finally treat with a developer, preferably ferrous oxalate. The green fog is converted into a very fine grey deposit which is almost invisible and has no appreciable effect on the printing qualities of the negative.
First Lippmann Plates
Wow, impressive, congratulations!manalokos wrote:Hello
Here are my first Lippmann plates, made with Geola's PGF-03:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIV2T1b ... zt3tl1x1Pw
First Lippmann Plates
Your latter point makes me believe it's related to some pyro staining.manalokos wrote:GREEN FOG. The surface of the film shows a peculiar brilliant green or yellowish-green lustrous appearance, generally in patches, when examined by reflected light, but is more or less distinctly pink when the plate is looked through. This effect is rarely observed except when pyro-ammonia has been used as the developer, and it most frequently occurs with old plates, especially if development has been long continued or has been forced by the addition of comparatively large quantities of ammonia.
If the developers is highly alkaline (ammonia!) the effect becomes more pronounced.
I assume you already tried some of the GP-type of developers. What about the amidol developers?
In the "holographic" case pyro stain can be destroyed by dichromate, permanganate, iodine and other strong bleaches. But here that may not be the best solution since it's likely to remove the image as well.
I'm not sure about a ferric chloride bleach. Wouldn't it damage the emulsion?
First Lippmann Plates
Hello Martin
I was sugesting that the pyro staining is in fact the first orders of interference present in the Lippmann method that might appear in normal plates, and not really a fog.
Kind regards
Filipe
I was sugesting that the pyro staining is in fact the first orders of interference present in the Lippmann method that might appear in normal plates, and not really a fog.
Kind regards
Filipe
First Lippmann Plates
Hello Filipe, these are very nice Lippmann photographies. Did you use a mercury miror? I have developed special plates for this work (U04-Lippmann). I have some people testing them at this time. If you want to try too them please contact me. Regards. Yves