What items should I buy for a beginning 3d hologram
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tiger86
What items should I buy for a beginning 3d hologram
I know I need a laser but the best I can get hold of is a laser pen I also know I need a mm lens but I am not sure what size. Could someone help me out please? I am real new at this.
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Colin Kaminski
What items should I buy for a beginning 3d hologram
It depends on your budget. The kit from Integraf with the pfg-01 plates is the easiest and fastest way to get started. It has almost everything you need.
HK-STU $119
HK-STU $119
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Solarenemy
What items should I buy for a beginning 3d hologram
Most red pointer can work. But you don't need or really don't want a lens. Diodes have a unique property of you can get to the raw beam. They are spread out perfectly and work perfectly for holography purposes as long as they are TEMoo which most small red one are. All you have to do is carefully remove by either unthreading or even cutting with a hacksaw the end of the pointer off just behind the lens. usually the diode is far enough back if you cut just behind the lens you wont hurt the diode. After you get it off carefully remove any metal debris without touching the small window on the diode with anything. If you get any kind if dirt or debris on this window it is very hard to clean and will impact the quality of your hologram greatly. Since you can't put the lens back on unless it was threaded you will need a baggy to keep the diode in for storage to keep free from dust.
If your handy with electronics its a good idea to figure a way to power the unit using two D size batteries as they will run it for a week or more non stop. They also sell diode modules on ebay that I have found to work well from a company called Axxis. They have removable lenses which are handy for replacing during storage to keep dust out. All you have to do is hook the two free wires to two D size batteries and the laser is good to go once you remove the lens. I bought my PFG-01 plates from Integraf. For developer i use Kodak D-19 which can be bought in powder form on Amazon or other photo companies and it will make one gallon. For bleach i am using the EDTA bleach formula. All the chemicals can be bought from the Photographers Formulary. Check the Silver Halide Chemistry section for the formulas. We discussed them in there and they are listed.
After that you just have to come up with a place and a method for doing your shots. I use a 12 by 12 by 2 inch concrete block painted black on my bathroom floor for doing my shoots. I made a tower from sand filled PVC pipe that I can mount my laser on a various heights and angles. Use your imagination and be creative. The number one rule is make sure your object and film plate are mounted in a rigid way and a rigid surface where they will not move on even a microscopic level in relation to each other during your exposure. The laser is not as critical where it is mounted nor does it have to be on the same surface.
If your handy with electronics its a good idea to figure a way to power the unit using two D size batteries as they will run it for a week or more non stop. They also sell diode modules on ebay that I have found to work well from a company called Axxis. They have removable lenses which are handy for replacing during storage to keep dust out. All you have to do is hook the two free wires to two D size batteries and the laser is good to go once you remove the lens. I bought my PFG-01 plates from Integraf. For developer i use Kodak D-19 which can be bought in powder form on Amazon or other photo companies and it will make one gallon. For bleach i am using the EDTA bleach formula. All the chemicals can be bought from the Photographers Formulary. Check the Silver Halide Chemistry section for the formulas. We discussed them in there and they are listed.
After that you just have to come up with a place and a method for doing your shots. I use a 12 by 12 by 2 inch concrete block painted black on my bathroom floor for doing my shoots. I made a tower from sand filled PVC pipe that I can mount my laser on a various heights and angles. Use your imagination and be creative. The number one rule is make sure your object and film plate are mounted in a rigid way and a rigid surface where they will not move on even a microscopic level in relation to each other during your exposure. The laser is not as critical where it is mounted nor does it have to be on the same surface.