Homemade High Power Diode Laser

koliaco · Post by **koliaco** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:25 pm

Hi everyone!!!

My name is Kolia and I live in Auckland, New Zealand.

I am new to holography, I started reading books and doing research about holography since last November and made my first few holograms on PFG-01 plates and films with integraf 4mW diode laser. However, the holograms did not seem to be bright enough, and I think its mainly stability problem. So I just built a 750kg table in my room, will post pictures later when I learn how to do that

. As I am making holograms for an art project, which is due by May this year, the need to get bright and high diffraction efficiency holograms becomes a must. Plus I need to make lots of them ( about 140 4x5" just to give an idea, ideally should be on films as plates would be too heavy, as I live in new zealand and things an't so accessible in here as in usa).

With my current budget, there no chance I could ever dreamt of a Hene laser, or even mentioning of DPSS C315M at all. So my only option is cheap high power Diode laser that will hopefully work. I am so glad I rechecked holography forum and found out about building own high power laser diode with heat sink and PI system. Thank you all for putting up such a wealth of resources on holowiki.com.

I pretty much got the hang of making it from holowiki, except for the diode power source part. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could explain to me how to put them together or direct me to more detailed instruction posts and where to get those parts from(like: 20ohm multiturn precision pot)! I do understand basic electricity, but just don't know which end connects to what base on circuit drawing as I am not familiar with these electronic parts. And what should be the amperage of the 6V VDC current?

My plan for emulsions are homemade red sensitive DCG by Jeff Blyth method. Btw, has anybody in here had great successes with this method? if yes can you please post links or direct to some photos of this type of holograms? I know people talk alot about BB plates, but they are probably too heavy for my project + surcharge on shipping, ultimate are way too expensive, considering that I will need hundreds of 4x5"sizes.

I welcome any suggestions and my thanks up front!

Justin W · Post by **Justin W** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:39 pm

koliaco wrote: So I just built a 750kg table in my room, will post pictures later when I learn how to do that .

Howdy and welcome!

We'd love to see some pictures of your table. I'll outline one of the techniques that will allow you to post them here.
Now... this is just what I do - I don't know that it's the easiest way, but it works:

1) Host your photos on an appropriate site. I use Yahoo Geocities. It was pretty easy to sign up for and get rolling.
2) Copy the link the site provides.
3) Start your post here...
4) Where you want to insert your image, click the Img button, immediately following it, paste the link from Geocities. Then hit the Img button again.

When you click "preview", you should see the image embedded in your post. Moving the ImglinkImg text to new locations in your post should move the embedded image.

Colin Kaminski · Post by **Colin Kaminski** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:57 am

The forum can also host photos for you. If you look below the Submit button on the left side there is a link "upload attachment". Click on it and brows to the file on your computer and it will upload it to your post. I ask that you try to keep the photos below 100K.

You can get many electronic parts from digikey.com. I am sure they would have a 20 turn pot. I never had much luck with my diodes. I hope you have better luck. Others do fine. If you are making your own emulsion you will find it very hard to coat onto film. If at all posible stick to glass.

koliaco · Post by **koliaco** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:50 am

Colin Kaminski wrote:You can get many electronic parts from digikey.com.

Thanks for your reply, I tried searching for 20 turn pot and found this http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 211P200-ND, but they seem to only sell in bulk. I am just wondering if purchasing a ready made power supply board like this http://www.mi-lasers.com/cgi-bin/shoppe ... key=LDD-40 would produce same result as schematic on holowiki? as for someone who is not so familier with electric stuffs I would rather get it plug an play if it gives same end use.

Hans · Post by **Hans** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:54 pm

I am just wondering if purchasing a ready made power supply board like this http://www.mi-lasers.com/cgi-bin/shoppe ... key=LDD-40 would produce same result as schematic on holowiki? as for someone who is not so familiar with electric stuffs I would rather get it plug an play if it gives same end use.

Yes, that should work well.

koliaco · Post by **koliaco** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 6:46 pm

Thanks Hans, I think i will buy it then, saving me all hassles of sourcing parts and putting them together.

DJ Mathson · Post by **DJ Mathson** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 7:06 pm

Koliaco, you may also look at different laser forums, like http://www.laserpointerforums.com, and read about diode drivers. You can find tutorials on how to build small cheap drivers for red and violet laser diodes. Sometime people sell kits or ready assembled drivers to which you can hook up your diode. Search, for example, for "LM317 driver" or "DDL driver".

Here is a thread about the DDL driver with good explanations:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forum ... 1185701612

koliaco · Post by **koliaco** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:38 am

DJ Mathson wrote:Koliaco, you may also look at different laser forums, like http://www.laserpointerforums.com, and read about diode drivers. You can find tutorials on how to build small cheap drivers for red and violet laser diodes. Sometime people sell kits or ready assembled drivers to which you can hook up your diode. Search, for example, for "LM317 driver" or "DDL driver".

Here is a thread about the DDL driver with good explanations:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forum ... 1185701612

Thanks a lot DJ Mathson (let me know if I dont call your name correctly)! I found the forum very useful and infomative, just what I was looking for!, things are getting clearer for me now

. ...keep reading.

Cheers

koliaco · Post by **koliaco** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:18 am

DJ Mathson wrote:Here is a thread about the DDL driver with good explanations:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forum ... 1185701612

My question is - should I still build a driver base on schematic from Holowiki to power the HL6512MG? With the same LM317, change resistors and remove the silicon diode?

Also, can you please clarify that symbol on bottom center of the circuit stands for negative current end? (please forgive me for being a bit dump about this)

Hans · Post by **Hans** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:40 am

The symbol on the bottom is just to show what is the negative end of the 6V power supply. You can use either circuit. The extra diode in the other circuit is actually a good idea to have there because it protects against current reversal that might happen if a cheap power supply is used when it is switched on.
I would use the resistors as they are in the wiki because the 20 Ohm multiturn precision pot gives much more accuracy in adjusting the current. The 1 Ohm resistor is there to be able to measure the current live as the laser is being used. That is a very handy feature in finding regions where no mode hops are occurring.