JD-4 Developing Tips?

onyx86 · Post by **onyx86** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 7:53 pm

Anyone have tips for obtaining the best results developing PFG-03M with JD-4 developer? How do I get it to develop evenly and clearly over the entire plate? Are there any tools or tricks for handling and submerging the plates to minimize streaks or damage?

Here is a pic of one of my first holograms made with the Integraf holokit. I used my 21mW JDS 1145P instead of the included 4mW diode. Exposure time was about 5 seconds.

The_Stranger · Post by **The_Stranger** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:12 am

onyx86 wrote:Anyone have tips for obtaining the best results developing PFG-03M with JD-4 developer? How do I get it to develop evenly and clearly over the entire plate? Are there any tools or tricks for handling and submerging the plates to minimize streaks or damage?

Here is a pic of one of my first holograms made with the Integraf holokit. I used my 21mW JDS 1145P instead of the included 4mW diode. Exposure time was about 5 seconds.

What I did was presoak the plate after exposure for about 15 secs in water (distilled) and then as quickly as possible transfer it from the water into the developer (without letting the water drip of the plate) I dunked it in the developer keeping it level while keeping the plate between two fingers at the opposite corners. in the developer I keep the plate at the corners and I move it around in the tray, in all directions untill the times up. Then again, as quickly as possible tranfer it to the next rinse bath etc etc...

That way I managed to produce drip free holograms. Be aware the emulsion is rather soft and any touching when developing might result in damage.

In this topic are some examples of my holograms, which show a lot of other problems, but do not show drips (except the very first one, also coins).

So I would summarize it by saying you need to transfer plates as quickly as possible and level if possible. Apart from that, I do assume you use some wetting agent and dry the plates keeping them vertical?? Haven't got a clue what the result would be without though...

onyx86 · Post by **onyx86** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 4:54 pm

Thanks Stranger. I noticed that on most of the plates ive developed so far, there is a holographic strip along the edge. I assume its coming from the internal reflections of the laser on the edge of the plate. Would it help to use a Sharpee to black out the sides of the plate before exposure?

The_Stranger · Post by **The_Stranger** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 5:16 pm

onyx86 wrote:Thanks Stranger. I noticed that on most of the plates ive developed so far, there is a holographic strip along the edge. I assume its coming from the internal reflections of the laser on the edge of the plate. Would it help to use a Sharpee to black out the sides of the plate before exposure?

I do believe you can use that, or a piece of black tape (just watch out for shadows).

Tom B. · Post by **Tom B.** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:36 am

Re edge blackening I've tried both markers and tape and am not happy with either. Tape is hard to work with in the dark, markers tend to wash of in developer leaving little flakes to settle on the next plate. That said, I generally use markers. You will need to experiment to find a good marker - Sharpie is not the best, Staedtler is better.

Joe Farina · Post by **Joe Farina** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:09 am

To prevent light from getting into the edges of the glass, I've built a little frame out of brass L-strip. This is easy to use when the plate is lying horizontally on the table.

This brass strip is readily available, around here at least, and comes in a wide variety of sizes. It's made by K & S Engineering, and should be available on eBay. (It's used by model-makers. etc.) I just cut four pieces with a razor saw, with 45 degree angles, soldered them together, and painted it flat black. If you're using a standard plate size, say 2.5" square, or 4 X 5, then the frame is very easy to use, just place in on top of the glass. (I don't have the strip any larger than necessay, just enough to cover the edges of the glass).

A note about flat black: I like to use Testor's flat black paint (again used by model-makers). To make a strong and adherent layer on aluminum, I bake this at 400 degrees F for about half an hour after the paint has dried. (I use a brush, which puts on a fairly heavy layer of paint -- it's less messy and wasteful compared to spraying.) I don't know for sure if the baking step has the same effect with other metals like steel or brass, but I think there's a good chance that it does. Without baking, the paint chips off quite easily, but after baking, it becomes quite usable.

Joe Farina · Post by **Joe Farina** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 10:23 am

I checked eBay, and it looks like the correct term for that brass is "brass angle" and not L-strip, for example, one listing is for "hobby/craft 10pc 1/8" X 1/8" X 12" Brass Angle K&S #171"

Joe Farina · Post by **Joe Farina** » Sat Oct 10, 2009 11:12 am

Here are a couple pictures of my edge-cover for 2.5" plates.

onyx86 · Post by **onyx86** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:22 am

Excellent advice Joe! Thanks for the pics too.

JohnFP · Post by **JohnFP** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:34 am

Thanks Joe, love to hear alternative techniques.