Some development questions

[Viking]

Hello holographers

I am about to order the chems to make TJ-1 and Phillips Ferric EDTA bleach. Does these two go well together? Just want to make sure before buying.
Also I would like to experiment with unbleached holos (mainly for making reflection H1 to H2 copies). What is the development procedure in this case?
Develop, rinse, stop bath or is it develop rinse fix or a combination? I am a bit confused about stop bath and fixer. They both make the film insensitive
to light or is the stop bath only to prevent further development while rinsing and then you fix? Maybe stop is not nessesary? Now that i am out of chems
I try to do my 'homework', reading all I can find on film development, but it seems all take it for granted that you know what stop and fix does. By the way,
can such a holo be bleached later, if for no other reason to learn the different proporties of bleached and nonbleached holos? If possible I would
suspect I need a reversal bleach. Is this correct?

I hope somebody can answer these questions for me. Thanks in advance.

[JohnFP]

Wow, I can't believe no one has answered your question or at least given some advice. I don't work much with silver and when I did I used the "nasty" chemical which I will not recommend in this begining section.

I will say I always bleached my holograms if they were H1 masters. I never used the stop bath as when you use bleach, that stops it. And yes, I believe you can go back to an unbleached hologram and bleach it.

Hopefully some of the more experienced silver guys will chime in.

[Martin]

I am about to order the chems to make TJ-1 and Phillips Ferric EDTA bleach. Does these two go well together?

I'm not familiar with the TJ-1 thing but assume there's no problem using the two.

Also I would like to experiment with unbleached holos (mainly for making reflection H1 to H2 copies).

That's probably no good idea. Image brightness of unbleached holos tend to be pretty dim (unless treated with a colloidal developer).

What is the development procedure in this case?
Develop, rinse, stop bath or is it develop rinse fix or a combination?

A stop bath should give you sufficient image stability unless you're exposing your holo to sunlight.

I am a bit confused about stop bath and fixer. They both make the film insensitive
to light or is the stop bath only to prevent further development while rinsing and then you fix? Maybe stop is not nessesary? Now that i am out of chems
I try to do my 'homework', reading all I can find on film development, but it seems all take it for granted that you know what stop and fix does. By the way,
can such a holo be bleached later, if for no other reason to learn the different proporties of bleached and nonbleached holos? If possible I would
suspect I need a reversal bleach. Is this correct?

Put aside a few special cases I only use fixing baths for transmission masters and never for reflection holos.

[The_Stranger]

Hello holographers

I am about to order the chems to make TJ-1 and Phillips Ferric EDTA bleach.

I have no experience yet, however I have gone through all of the old posts of this forum and found a memeber Hans who said:

I used EDTA bleach. Very bright transmission hologram. Brighter than my tests with Ultimate 08 transmissions. And the Fuji film is so much faster with Ascorbic TJ1 developer than the Ultimate.

He is talking about the TJ1 developer on fuji film. He is reacting though to a post stating poor results with TJ1/ascorbic developer and EDTA bleach on transmission holo's

In another post Hans says:

Yes, use EDTA bleach. It works very well with TJ1.

A bleach that works only slightly better for me than EDTA is the Ferric Brillant bleach (EDTA bleach seems to give a very slight blue shift).

And he gives the following tip:

Important tip about TJ1:

Ascorbic Acid + Metol like to oxidise when they get the change. So exclusion from air is important. Luckily, you only need about 10ml part A plus 10ml PartB to develop a small plate.

So, to keep my solutions in good condition before mixing, I always make a stock 600ml of developer A. I then store this developer PartA in ten syringes of 60ml. When I need some, I squeeze some out of a syringe. When I run out of developer, I make another 600ml. Voila, never any air with the developer.

Use developer only for one plate if you want the brightest and sharpest results. You can use as little as possible. Just enough to soak the plate with developer. It helps to submerge the plate in some water before putting it in the developer.

[Viking]

Hello JohnFP and Martin

Thanks for your replys.
And ups! just found explanations about stop and fixer on the wiki. How could I have missed that... Now it is clear to me that stop only pauses development and fixer is what causes the plate to no more be sensitive to light.
I'll order the chems and get to work. By then I should have my automatic shutter ready so that I can leave the room while shooting. And I got myself a 1x2m piece of marble and put it on innertubes. Now I can (gently!) tab my foot on the floor without Mr Michelsen complaining! A nice upgrade from my kittylitter filled sandbox. It was discovered by my cats (all seven of them), boy holography stinks sometimes :doh:

[Viking]

Hello Stranger

Thank you so much for bringing that to my attention. I myself am going through old threads, it seems others have asked most of my questions. So reading old threads is a great way to learn. I have not come upon the one you mension yet, so you have been very helpfull. I see that the Phillips Ferric Edta I am going to buy the ingredients for (advice from Collin) can easily be changed to the Brilland bleach Hans mension, so there is room for experimenting. Great. Thanks for the reassurance.
I hope soon to be able to post some photos of holograms here, to prove to you all that your time helping me has not been wasted. Thanks again to all of you.