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Simple answers are here! For Theory look in General Holography.
decolorante

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Post by decolorante »

Greetings to everyone. This is my first post here, so I write mainly to say "hello!" and getting started knowing someone :)

I just have to share my dismay for the annoying situation I find myself into. I am a photographer, and I discovered this holography thing only some time ago. Being already used to working with chemicals, films and exposures, I thought I could give it a try. I thought that, having just bought a green laser pointer (for other reasons), I wouldn't need to buy another one.

Then, browsing the great source of information that this forum is, I discovered that my laser (a Wicked Lasers Core, 5 mW 532 nm) is most certainly unsuitable for holography, due to modes and polarization being not made clear by the manufacturer, maximum on-time 100 seconds before it gets damaged, and probably other reasons.

Oh, how sad I am feeling for my wallet. I thought I had bought a great product, until now. Now I will also stop enjoying it for other things. What I thought was a pure, clean source of light probably is just a chaotic orgy of photons which happen to be of almost the same frequency.

I am uncertain. I can either buy green-sensitive material and developer, which would mean spending less but having an huge chance of not getting anything due to the stupid laser. Or I can buy a kit with red laser, red-sensitive plates and developer from Integraf, spend a bit more, throw my green one in the trashbin, and be almost sure that it will work.

Adding to the uncertainity is the fact that Integraf does not reply to my quote requests, a week after I sent them. You generally don't want to buy from a company which doesn't reply, but I keep reading that it is a very good company, so I don't know what to think.

Sorry for the rant. I hope I didn't annoy anyone.. point it out to me if I am greatly misunderstanding something.

Have a nice day, and keep up the good work. Holography as an art should never die! :wink:
The_Stranger

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Post by The_Stranger »

Nothing is more frustrating then failing time after time, only to discover after multiple failures that is was your laser and not your fault no holograms came out. So I would advise to buy a good new laser, preferably from members of this board (Dave Battin sells some good ones once in a while, both in quality as in price, but there are more sellers) and go from there, knowing if your holograms fail, it is not the laser which is at fault. Or go for the integraf kit instead, it is the cheapest way to start and from experience I can tell you, you can get some nice holograms from that one too...

Integraf has responded to my emails everytime and in rather short time too, so maybe something went wrong or they are "closed"?
glajciorz

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Post by glajciorz »

Deco, why not try a low power HeNe laser for exposing your holos ? It would be the cheapest option (besides exposing with a red pointer).
Your green pionter will be ideal for viewing transmission holograms.
Anyhow I would try to expose a holo with such a pointer - you could alway lower its output power. Maybe it will survive warming up, maybe not, but you won't know if you don't try.
Maybe C215M would fit in your budget - costs below $200 and has excellent characteristics.

greetings
Adam
dave battin

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Post by dave battin »

yes, well said Stranger and thank you. the 215 and 315 lasers made by Coherent are great little lasers. if your budget will allow , get the biggest power output as possible, i currently have some coherent 215m lasers w/10-30 mw output, and some HE-NE lasers , @ 25+ MW. PM me if you are interested, heck ill even include some film to get you started .....................

oh and also welcome to the forum too


decolorante, where are you from?
decolorante

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Post by decolorante »

Thanks for all input and suggestions.

To get a "true" laser (He-Ne for example) is one of my dreams. I'd have many uses for that, besides holograms. Right now, I am experiencing difficulty to make up enough money to afford the Integraf Student Holokit, so I'm out of that.. but this is a suggestion I will surely follow when I can.

Can you please, if you have some time to spare, explain what characteristics one should look for in a diode laser, to be able to use it for holograms? I mean, why you can't just point a (good quality, not cheap) green diode laser beam in a spreading lens and on an emulsion and expect it to work? On the forum I found many hints to this question, but never seen it actually addressed directly. Does it need to be polarized (and how)? Does it need to be power-regulated? Frequency-regulated? Of constant intensity in all beam diameter? I don't know, things like that.

Thank you for your patience.. dreaming about He-Ne lasers now. :drool:

Dave, I am from Italy. I will PM you for more information about lasers..!
glajciorz

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Post by glajciorz »

To get a "true" laser (He-Ne for example) is one of my dreams. I'd have many uses for that, besides holograms. Right now, I am experiencing difficulty to make up enough money to afford the Integraf Student Holokit, so I'm out of that.. but this is a suggestion I will surely follow when I can.
Understood.
Just a tip - these HeNes are being sold for about $10 per mW of output power. I was exposing 15 min. MBDCG holos with 0.9mW HeNe...
I would expect the power supply to be more expensive than the tube itself.
You can always try to swap your green pointer for a small HeNe together with PSU.
Can you please, if you have some time to spare, explain what characteristics one should look for in a diode laser, to be able to use it for holograms?
For the beginning look for low-power diodes (below 5mW). They should be stable enough for your first holo.
I mean, why you can't just point a (good quality, not cheap) green diode laser beam in a spreading lens and on an emulsion and expect it to work?
No stable green diode lasers yet, but Jeff Blyth was exposing DCG holograms with 20mW pointer. I don't know if the pointer was stable enough, but if you want to work in silver it will probably work.
Does it need to be polarized (and how)?
It should be.
Both diodes and pointers emit polarized light.
Does it need to be power-regulated?
Not necessarily.
Frequency-regulated?
No.
Of constant intensity in all beam diameter?
Nope.
Dave, I am from Italy. I will PM you for more information about lasers..!
Christiano Perucci is from Italy too. Contact him, it's a helpful guy.

greetings
Adam
decolorante

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Post by decolorante »

Adam, I think I will follow your suggestion to try using the green pointer anyway, should I find a supplier which allows me to buy only three or four green sensitive plates. I don't want to get a box of 30 only to discover I can't use them. :D Or, I might go the homebrew DCG route. I have some experience in coating sheets with gum arabic / dichromate emulsion for photography. This also means I already have the potassium dichromate. Gum won't work, I suppose.
DJ Mathson

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Post by DJ Mathson »

decolorante wrote:Can you please, if you have some time to spare, explain what characteristics one should look for in a diode laser, to be able to use it for holograms? I mean, why you can't just point a (good quality, not cheap) green diode laser beam in a spreading lens and on an emulsion and expect it to work? On the forum I found many hints to this question, but never seen it actually addressed directly. Does it need to be polarized (and how)? Does it need to be power-regulated? Frequency-regulated? Of constant intensity in all beam diameter? I don't know, things like that.
First, welcome to the forum.
I will now try to give you some answers. Please, laserists out there, correct me if there are inaccuracies.

The main reason green laser pointers, or most common lab style lasers won´t work for holography is that they have a longitudinal multimode behavior, or that they mode hop.

Longitudinal multimode means that there are several laser lines at the same time, closely separated. The green laser light is still green, but it consists of two or more color wavelengths separated with just a few parts of a nanometer. The laser light is then not just one color, but several, and has a broad linewidth. (Mode spectrum, linewidth and coherence length are very closely related.) This also makes the laser having a short coherence length (temporal coherence), making the recorded hologram appear like "sliced bread" with light and dark lines through the image. The coherence length can in this case be of just a few millimeters.

When a laser is said to be in single longitudinal mode it has basically just one color or one dominating mode, and the spectrum or linewidth is very narrow. This gives a long coherence length, up to meters or hundreds of meters. The "sliced bread" slices then are of equal long length and you can make very deep holograms.

Mode hopping is when the laser jumps between different spectrum modes, or between different laser lines. This behavior can also give the "sliced bread" appearance or render a weak or feeble hologram.

A laser can also drift over time so the color wavelength gets longer or shorter destroying the recording of the interference fringes.

There may also be chaotic and noisy behavior.

So, what you need is a laser with a long coherence length (and short linewidth) that are at least as long as the depth you want in your hologram. You also want it to be stable, and with no mode hopping.

In gas lasers, the most common is the red Helium-Neon laser which often has a coherence length of 15-20 cm. Blue and green argon lasers usually have shorter coherence length. Blue Helium-Cadmium lasers also have short coherence length. However, there are filter devices called etalons that can separate and enhance certain laser lines and by this increase the coherence length.

DPSS lasers like green laser pointers or common green or blue lab style lasers usually have a very short coherence length. But there are some DPSS lasers that have a very long coherence length like the green Coherent Compass lasers, the JDSU µGreen lasers and the blue Melles 58 lasers, among a few. These lasers are usually much more expensive than common "light show" lasers.

Low powered diode lasers like red laser pointers can have quite good characteristics with a coherence length of 50 cm up to meters. The Integraf diode is one example. High powered red laser diodes are either longitudinal multimode or are very prone to mode hop or drift. You need extreme temperature and current controls to find and stay in a stable region with these. Violet Blue-Ray diodes are most often multimode and mode hopping.

Here is an excellent page by wler of his longitudinal spectrum measurements of various lasers.
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/redlum.xohp ... ectra.html

One more thing to consider is the polarization of the laser. Hene lasers are often linearly polarized, but can also be randomly polarized. Since the interference pattern is strongest between light of the same polarization there is a better chance to get good fringes with a linearly polarized laser. The polarization vektor is also controllable with certain optics, which sometimes is useful. Diode or DPSS lasers are usually linearly polarized.

You also want the laser to be in transversal single mode (TEM00), which usually means that you have a Gausian distribution of the light when you look at the transversal section of the beam. There are other transversal modes where there are different patterns in the distribution, which means the 'laser spot' will not be just one spot but several spots or lines instead.

Also, the power output of the laser shouldn´t change too much over time.

So, to sum up, for cheap experiments use a cheap red helium-neon laser (preferably linearly polarized) or a low power (5 mW) diode laser. For more elaborate work buy a green Compass or µGreen (10-100 mW) laser or a high powered Hene. Both green and red lasers can be used with Silver-Halide film, and red with Methylene blue DCG and green lasers with Green-sensitive-DCG. For ordinary DCG use a blue DPSS or an etalon enhanced argon laser. For full color holography, you need one of each; blue, green and red.

I hope this made it a bit clearer.
decolorante

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Post by decolorante »

DJ Mathson, thanks for the huge lot of information, that's exactly what I wanted to know.

I think I will get some 5mW red laser diode and build a simple driver circuit for it, as this seems the cheapest alternative that has a chance to work. I understand that if I put no lens on the diode I will have the result of having an already spread beam without the drawback of two extra optical elements in the light path. I don't think I can take the 635nm diode out of a DVD reader though, I think it could be just too powerful and run into the problems you described. Since Farnell sells many rated at some milliwatts, I will look for a new one.
holo_cyware

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Post by holo_cyware »

If you can get an old laser pointer, that would work too. After all, this is how all began: someone asked himsef if a laserpoiter works for holography. And it did! I imagine you can find these cheap pointers (1€ a piece or something like that) at the fleamarkets. That would be really cheap.
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