DIGITAL 2011

holomaker · Post by **holomaker** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:10 am

hi guys

Greg, this hologram is already "shuffled" (H1) and was meant to only be a test hologram to see all is working correctly. Made to only be a rainbow master, only a horizontal line of information will be used to make the second generation "H2", the image screen is 14 inches deep so in the replay (H2), these slits will be projected way in front (viewing distance meant to be 24" or less)........... the proof will be in the H2 (ill make h2s as soon as i shoot a couple more H1 masters).

DJ, yes this pico projector is an amazing holography tool ! The resolution in vga is less then HDMI but the pixals are the same size bt there is added sides the fit the normal laptop configuration WXGA? This is convenient as an ertxa wide format always helps in holography! so far the image does carry some very fine pixals can be seen 12x14 image. I have seen a number of digital holograms and this image (so far) seems to be similar .....the conversion of the pico takes about 15 minuets and requires no soldering!
I have that digital frame on order (to drive the Pico, )so that should be here very soon!

Thanks for the intrest here guys, is anyone thinking about converting a Pico projector?

Arturo · Post by **Arturo** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 5:33 am

> Thanks for the intrest here guys, is anyone thinking about converting a Pico projector?

I had some correspondence with Justin because a saw a nice offer for this model here in Spain (it's gone now), and that made me realize I should try easier and safer approaches first. But it would be great to have the details on how to do it... just in case!

Also, I'd love to see an schematic on your set-up, if possible... In any case, thanks for sharing... I cannot wait to see a video of the final test skull you posted a picture of!

Cheers! Arturo.

HoloM · Post by **HoloM** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:02 pm

great work!
can you give explanation of modifying pico projector? with pictures?
can you show a schematic of your setup? do you project on a ground glass or directly on the hologram?

holomaker · Post by **holomaker** » Fri May 25, 2012 11:59 am

I didn’t want to start a new thread, but if this new converted Casio projector works as well as we hoped, It will need to start it's own Category! AS it turned out i suspect the conversion Justin and I did to the original PK201 model didn’t provide enough cooling for the backside of the DMD and caused it to corrupt. Now with advent of this cool lil device made by a forum member over at PL (you can PM me for his ID). I’m posting these shots here to show what ill be applying to the former DMD Pico projector ....

Jeffrey Weil · Post by **Jeffrey Weil** » Sat May 26, 2012 10:58 pm

Hello Dave,

Great work on the printer so far, when can we see an H2?

Jeff W

holomaker · Post by **holomaker** » Sun May 27, 2012 3:30 am

Hi Jeff, still trying to figure out the optical path this thing needs (Justin said hes got it figured out), Ill be trying my best to get a good H2 by the end of june, if im lucky, so stand by on that for now ................

holomaker · Post by **holomaker** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:52 am

Well it's been a long road to get this system to finally run correctly. Initially i thought we (Justin and myself), were screwed as the projected image seemed to project off axis ! After reading as much info as possible i decided to attempt a precision alignment (sort of precision), on this chip.

Alignment begins by shooting a laser pointer directly normal into DMD's window, watch for a direct "zero order" return from DMD window as well as return from DMD's mirrors (no power). Adjust accordingly to receive the pointers beam back on itself .

Now turn on DMD and a positive image will be seen projected off at an obtuse angle, this is actually the proper angle to send the beam into the DMD. A way i captured this angle was to set up two crosshairs along this beams axis. Now one has to simply run the input beam thru the two cross hairs and expand the beam slightly to cover the DMD's window.

I then set up a Plano/convex lens (plano side facing DMD) with a couple inches of back focal length in front of the DMDs window, and finally a 3mm aperture located close to the lens (output side) to clean up the output.

Pictures to follow shortly ............

holomaker · Post by **holomaker** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:23 pm

Here's a couple pictures of the DIP (Digital Image Projector) ,
the first one is a close up of the projector in use, the beam is coming in from the top left and is lightly expanded (via concave mirror only) hitting the DMD's face, the projected image light exits the DMD normal to the face of the chip, then a PCX lens is used, which I had to grind its corner so it wouldn’t interfere with the input beam. Then the image is passed thru a aperture and finally to the frosted screen............

The second shot is a close up of the mirror and its support, i was totally squeezed for space between the elevated beams so i just used the concave mirror stuck to it with Plasticine clay .......

Jeffrey Weil · Post by **Jeffrey Weil** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:43 pm

Super cool Dave, also a very nice shot of the beam coming off of the DLP!

A modeling clay mounted mirror in a split beam setup...a setup where your trying to do dozens of holograms in a row, all perfect? I don't want to sound too picky but I have to ask.

Jeff W

HoloM · Post by **HoloM** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:30 pm

holomaker wrote:Here's a couple pictures of the DIP (Digital Image Projector) ,
the first one is a close up of the projector in use, the beam is coming in from the top left and is lightly expanded (via concave mirror only) hitting the DMD's face, the projected image light exits the DMD normal to the face of the chip, then a PCX lens is used, which I had to grind its corner so it wouldn’t interfere with the input beam. Then the image is passed thru a aperture and finally to the frosted screen............

The second shot is a close up of the mirror and its support, i was totally squeezed for space between the elevated beams so i just used the concave mirror stuck to it with Plasticine clay .......

How did you calculate the Lens to produce a sharp image on the ground glass? What's the space between DMD and ground glass? I did some experiments in this direction , too, but always had the problem to produce a sharp image on the glass.

How big is the picture on the screen, and what about incident angle? Do you come normal to the face of the screen? Can you describe, or even take a video how the picture on the screen looks like when you view it from the opposite side? How does it change in brightness if you move in front of the screen? Which angles are still good to view? And if you are directly in the line of the DMD is brightness increasing extremely? So in other words, how good does your ground glass diffuse in all directions, and what exactly did you use for your screen?