Hello
I am looking for some green sensitive (532nm) high resolution film. I'm wondering if there is a commonly used off the shelf product that anyone has found useful?
Xray film caught my eye recently and I am currently looking into that but figured I can't be the first person to try and find something like this.
Any suggestions please?
Thank you
Grayham
Off the shelf high resolution film
Off the shelf high resolution film
Assuming that you want to shoot holograms with the film, there are the usual sources from Geola, Shere-S, Slavich, Ultimate, ORWO, Colour Holographics, (British, not the spelling) and Ilford/Harman Technology, in no order of preference. The last one is available sometimes in camera stores, like B & H Photo Video or Freestyle Sales in the states. (It’s good etiquette on this forum to list where you are from.) Integraf is a distributor of some or all of the products. Google any of the above and you will find a web site with what wares they have available. Price and availability varies widely.
X-Ray film would not be a good bet for holography, or any other high resolution venture, as those products had extremely large grain sizes to limit the exposure to the penetrating radiation. ISO ratings for them were like 10,000 – 12,000. Kodak Tri-X which was considered somewhat of a high speed film had an ISO of 400. Photographic darkroom papers come in at about 1 on the ISO scale. Agfa 8E75HD comes in at about ISO .01!
A previously available product line that a better stocked camera store would have had in the halcyon years of the mid 20th century for silver halide photographic materials was Kodalith, registered trademark of Kodak of course, for their lithographic films and plates. They were used in plate-making for printing, with a binary density distribution of either black or clear. Gabor type holograms were recorded on it in the ‘50’s or ‘60’s, I have to dig through the archives to find the paper to cite it. The Kodak brand of litho films (term to Google) might be long gone, I still have about 50 sheets of it, but the last Freestyle catalog I saw had litho films listed.
I did shoot low frequency diffraction gratings on another long-lamented Kodak product, Technical Pan Film 2415, but they were nowhere near as efficient as those shot on Kodak Holographic Film SO-173 film shot in the same set up. There is some boutique brand film, Rollei, who offers something that they claim is a replacement for the former.
So I hope this can help you get started in shooting some holograms!
X-Ray film would not be a good bet for holography, or any other high resolution venture, as those products had extremely large grain sizes to limit the exposure to the penetrating radiation. ISO ratings for them were like 10,000 – 12,000. Kodak Tri-X which was considered somewhat of a high speed film had an ISO of 400. Photographic darkroom papers come in at about 1 on the ISO scale. Agfa 8E75HD comes in at about ISO .01!
A previously available product line that a better stocked camera store would have had in the halcyon years of the mid 20th century for silver halide photographic materials was Kodalith, registered trademark of Kodak of course, for their lithographic films and plates. They were used in plate-making for printing, with a binary density distribution of either black or clear. Gabor type holograms were recorded on it in the ‘50’s or ‘60’s, I have to dig through the archives to find the paper to cite it. The Kodak brand of litho films (term to Google) might be long gone, I still have about 50 sheets of it, but the last Freestyle catalog I saw had litho films listed.
I did shoot low frequency diffraction gratings on another long-lamented Kodak product, Technical Pan Film 2415, but they were nowhere near as efficient as those shot on Kodak Holographic Film SO-173 film shot in the same set up. There is some boutique brand film, Rollei, who offers something that they claim is a replacement for the former.
So I hope this can help you get started in shooting some holograms!
"We're the flowers in the dustbin" Sex Pistols
Off the shelf high resolution film
Hello Ed
At the moment I'm still trying to work out what's what when it comes to film. I have a source for some plates but am looking for a cheaper solution while I get up and running properly, working out my laser power, exposure times, chemicals etc.. I expect to have quite a bit of wastage while setting up and plates are relativity expensive.
Your post has given me a some good starting places though, thank you. I was aware of the grain size of the film but had not considered the ISO ratings. I am finding it difficult to get specs for the films I have been looking at so making it a little difficult to know what's useful and what's not.
The photo-plotter film for PCB's you can get these days looked interesting (AGFA HRO & Kodak ABG7 but again I think it has an incredibly high ISO so probably useless. However does that not mean you can use a much lower power and short exposure? I don't know, still learning.
I am in the UK by the way and have updated my profile. Thank you for the pointer.
hopefully Google will turn up some local suppliers.
Kind Regards
Grayham
At the moment I'm still trying to work out what's what when it comes to film. I have a source for some plates but am looking for a cheaper solution while I get up and running properly, working out my laser power, exposure times, chemicals etc.. I expect to have quite a bit of wastage while setting up and plates are relativity expensive.
Your post has given me a some good starting places though, thank you. I was aware of the grain size of the film but had not considered the ISO ratings. I am finding it difficult to get specs for the films I have been looking at so making it a little difficult to know what's useful and what's not.
The photo-plotter film for PCB's you can get these days looked interesting (AGFA HRO & Kodak ABG7 but again I think it has an incredibly high ISO so probably useless. However does that not mean you can use a much lower power and short exposure? I don't know, still learning.
I am in the UK by the way and have updated my profile. Thank you for the pointer.
hopefully Google will turn up some local suppliers.
Kind Regards
Grayham
Off the shelf high resolution film
There is a kind of false economy when using film; to keep it from moving during exposures requires you to make a film holder, which becomes a chore in itself, and there is no guarantee that the film will not move during exposure, causing great conniption fits as to what is going wrong.
My recommendation would be to get some of the small, 63 mm square plates when first starting, so that film movement is taken out of the list of things that could go bananas. This view would be echoed by our old friend Bob Hess, who banned himself from this forum. But that's another sitcom.
A device that has worked well for me as a film-holder is to use a contact print frame from the photographic darkroom. You can only shoot transmission holograms with this contraption, and you have to align the polarization vectors of the laser to minimize the woodgrain. But it works most of the time.
On another front, a different way of checking out the coherence length of a laser is through holography! Check out http://edweslystudio.com/Research/Coher ... e2013.html There is lot of other stuff on the site, what you might also find interesting on the site are the instructional handouts from holography classes I have taught through the ages, see http://edweslystudio.com/Pedagogy/PedagogyFrameset.html
I don't do FaceBook as I am a college professor, and the friend requests would not be pretty with students trying to curry favor, find out where I live, etc. I do have an FB account under my "Polish" name, what it was before my father and uncle changed it, so I can lurk there, but I pretty much remain voiceless in the discussions. Nothing yet has made me break radio silence, almost did so when there was that thread on holographic Lumia, as I have an impressive body or work using that technique, see http://edweslystudio.com/HoloArt/Artindex.html
Have fun and good luck!
My recommendation would be to get some of the small, 63 mm square plates when first starting, so that film movement is taken out of the list of things that could go bananas. This view would be echoed by our old friend Bob Hess, who banned himself from this forum. But that's another sitcom.
A device that has worked well for me as a film-holder is to use a contact print frame from the photographic darkroom. You can only shoot transmission holograms with this contraption, and you have to align the polarization vectors of the laser to minimize the woodgrain. But it works most of the time.
On another front, a different way of checking out the coherence length of a laser is through holography! Check out http://edweslystudio.com/Research/Coher ... e2013.html There is lot of other stuff on the site, what you might also find interesting on the site are the instructional handouts from holography classes I have taught through the ages, see http://edweslystudio.com/Pedagogy/PedagogyFrameset.html
I don't do FaceBook as I am a college professor, and the friend requests would not be pretty with students trying to curry favor, find out where I live, etc. I do have an FB account under my "Polish" name, what it was before my father and uncle changed it, so I can lurk there, but I pretty much remain voiceless in the discussions. Nothing yet has made me break radio silence, almost did so when there was that thread on holographic Lumia, as I have an impressive body or work using that technique, see http://edweslystudio.com/HoloArt/Artindex.html
Have fun and good luck!
"We're the flowers in the dustbin" Sex Pistols
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Steven
Off the shelf high resolution film
I have to agree with Ed.
I have found plates to be far easier to work with on the table.
Film can be a real pain to use, with the possibility of dust specks between the film and supporting sheet/s of glass.
Excellent holograms can be made on film, but far more effort will be required to get a defect free hologram.
As a beginner, you will have more success using plates.
You are going to need proper film/plates designed for making reflection holograms if you intend to view them in white light.
Don't waste your time looking for a cheap off the shelf alternative to proper holographic recording material, if it exists, the guys on here would have found it.
The only relatively cheap holographic recording material will be homemade, costing a little more than the price of the glass.
I see you are shooting in 532nm, what laser are you using?
HTH,
Steven.
I have found plates to be far easier to work with on the table.
Film can be a real pain to use, with the possibility of dust specks between the film and supporting sheet/s of glass.
Excellent holograms can be made on film, but far more effort will be required to get a defect free hologram.
As a beginner, you will have more success using plates.
You are going to need proper film/plates designed for making reflection holograms if you intend to view them in white light.
Don't waste your time looking for a cheap off the shelf alternative to proper holographic recording material, if it exists, the guys on here would have found it.
The only relatively cheap holographic recording material will be homemade, costing a little more than the price of the glass.
I see you are shooting in 532nm, what laser are you using?
HTH,
Steven.
Off the shelf high resolution film
Hi.
I continue to manufacture film for holography at 532 or 633 nm
VEM532 VEM633 and cost $ 70 a square meter.
Valery.
I continue to manufacture film for holography at 532 or 633 nm
VEM532 VEM633 and cost $ 70 a square meter.
Valery.
Off the shelf high resolution film
DCG was producing a film 185 microns.
Currently in stock 8-9 microns and 10-11 microns, roll width 120 mm.
Valery.
Currently in stock 8-9 microns and 10-11 microns, roll width 120 mm.
Valery.
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walschuler
Off the shelf high resolution film
smirholo/Valery,
Could you give the URL to see your product info?
Thanks! Bill
Could you give the URL to see your product info?
Thanks! Bill
Off the shelf high resolution film
Ed,
Thank you again for the help and suggestions all of which are much appreciated and also thank you for the links.
I will probably use the plates and film in conjunction to cover my bases while I'm learning however while I am messing with shutters and exposure times developer temperatures etc. I'm going to use the film more as it's half the cost even though a little more problematic.(hopefully not to many conniption fits)
Thank you for the tip on the contact print frame, I will see if I can find one. I was toying with building a film holder with some anti newton ring glass so I'm hoping that turns out well.
Steven,
My laser is a tem00 532nm >10wm DPSS module I bought from light vision technologies about 7 years back but had not used it. The unit is putting out around 20-30mw at full power but I don't have a meter to test it properly.
I built a Michelson Interferometer and pushed one arm out to 25 inches and still had fringes at full power so have my fingers crossed its OK. The fringes looked stable after the unit had warmed up and I took some photos of them but
I'm not sure how to attach them here. I was quite chuffed the fringes were stable enough for me to photograph while I was standing next to the table.
Valery,
I have sent you a PM.
Thank you all for the input and advice, much appreciated.
Grayham
Thank you again for the help and suggestions all of which are much appreciated and also thank you for the links.
I will probably use the plates and film in conjunction to cover my bases while I'm learning however while I am messing with shutters and exposure times developer temperatures etc. I'm going to use the film more as it's half the cost even though a little more problematic.(hopefully not to many conniption fits)
Thank you for the tip on the contact print frame, I will see if I can find one. I was toying with building a film holder with some anti newton ring glass so I'm hoping that turns out well.
Steven,
My laser is a tem00 532nm >10wm DPSS module I bought from light vision technologies about 7 years back but had not used it. The unit is putting out around 20-30mw at full power but I don't have a meter to test it properly.
I built a Michelson Interferometer and pushed one arm out to 25 inches and still had fringes at full power so have my fingers crossed its OK. The fringes looked stable after the unit had warmed up and I took some photos of them but
I'm not sure how to attach them here. I was quite chuffed the fringes were stable enough for me to photograph while I was standing next to the table.
Valery,
I have sent you a PM.
Thank you all for the input and advice, much appreciated.
Grayham