Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
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Colin Kaminski
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
In any programing envrionment there is a piece of software that is pre-written. Lately it is known as "Hello World". It will have the basics of what a program needs to simply exsist in that language. If you find yourself learning a new language start by modifying the "Hello World" program as much as you can. At some point you get board and start a new piece of code but with the knowledge of the minium that is required. The last time I learned a new language (68000 Asembler) I changed the "Hello World" program into a GUI TicTacToe program for a Mac +.
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Jeffrey Weil
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
Hello Justin,
You mentioned the cost of machining the parts. I know this is a lot to add on at the same time as your programing and doing all the other stuff for stereograms but I HIGHLY recommend that ANYONE serious about holography learn to machine their own stuff.
I have a small lathe and two mills. This is the latest one I've put in my house
http://www.industrialhobbies.com/Produc ... mill_2.htm
I also have the small one that this mill is eating in the 2nd photo.
I just did a very complex holo for a big Japanese company. This is a perfect example of why having your own stuff is great. The holo was a 7 layer 2d-3d with 5 of the layers in full color! That was a lot of work but it came out great.
While I was making it I found that my registration equipment and plateholder were not up to the job. I needed a presission part to get everything right. Within 20 min. I had the part and was back up and the holo got out on time. Without that mill it would have taken over a week longer! In production that is a lifetime.
Using this equipment is probably a little easier than you might think. The big mill you can have delivered for less than 2500 bucks or so. The small mill is about 500. I know thats a lot but you might just spend that much going to pro shops and having them do your stuff for you. While they are better machinests they don't know what we do. The parts we use are usually pretty simple and we can do it better. Even a spatial filter is a pretty simple thing once you understand the process.
Now, its true that I spent many years in holography before I learned how to do this and did some nice stuff. But now, I can't imagine how I lived so long without it.
I'll be making my new stereogram system pretty soon. I'm so glad I have this stuff to help out this time.
Jeffrey Weil
NorthBeach Holography Inc.
You mentioned the cost of machining the parts. I know this is a lot to add on at the same time as your programing and doing all the other stuff for stereograms but I HIGHLY recommend that ANYONE serious about holography learn to machine their own stuff.
I have a small lathe and two mills. This is the latest one I've put in my house
http://www.industrialhobbies.com/Produc ... mill_2.htm
I also have the small one that this mill is eating in the 2nd photo.
I just did a very complex holo for a big Japanese company. This is a perfect example of why having your own stuff is great. The holo was a 7 layer 2d-3d with 5 of the layers in full color! That was a lot of work but it came out great.
While I was making it I found that my registration equipment and plateholder were not up to the job. I needed a presission part to get everything right. Within 20 min. I had the part and was back up and the holo got out on time. Without that mill it would have taken over a week longer! In production that is a lifetime.
Using this equipment is probably a little easier than you might think. The big mill you can have delivered for less than 2500 bucks or so. The small mill is about 500. I know thats a lot but you might just spend that much going to pro shops and having them do your stuff for you. While they are better machinests they don't know what we do. The parts we use are usually pretty simple and we can do it better. Even a spatial filter is a pretty simple thing once you understand the process.
Now, its true that I spent many years in holography before I learned how to do this and did some nice stuff. But now, I can't imagine how I lived so long without it.
I'll be making my new stereogram system pretty soon. I'm so glad I have this stuff to help out this time.
Jeffrey Weil
NorthBeach Holography Inc.
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Justin W
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
Jeffrey - that's cool. Yeahbuddy just try to find a red-blooded male who doesn't long for machining capabilities of their own...
The way original plan I had was to order some aluminum plate and go at it with my dad's drill press. This original design was based on a not-uncomplicated gear train transferring power from the motor to the lead screws and it dawned on me that I would never never as in not ever drill my bearing holes accurately enough that the gears meshed properly, there in my dad's wood shop on a vintage Delta drill press...
Since that time the design has evolved and the gearing is history - power transmission, I now proudly announce, will be performed by a timing belt and the only opportunity for backlash will be between lead screws and nuts - and that will only matter upon slit carriage reset after the burn anyway.
But still - the chances of me getting all those many close-fit clearance holes and tapped holes I'm requesting that will hold this gizmo together are slightly less than nil - and despite not needing scores of bearing holes lining up properly, a few still need to.
My point being this - 1. There is no way this contraption will ever assemble properly and work right without being constructed from the precision-machined parts I have drawn up - and - 2. I live in a an apartment about as large as a walk-in closet and will never be able to fit a machine shop in here...
Anyway, I've been engaged in some dialog with Paul Markun at Tampa Technik machine shop and he has been not only very helpful with design advice but is willing to work with me on the price seeing as how this is not a corporate business venture and is in fact an ambitious hobby endeavor. So that's real good.
The way original plan I had was to order some aluminum plate and go at it with my dad's drill press. This original design was based on a not-uncomplicated gear train transferring power from the motor to the lead screws and it dawned on me that I would never never as in not ever drill my bearing holes accurately enough that the gears meshed properly, there in my dad's wood shop on a vintage Delta drill press...
Since that time the design has evolved and the gearing is history - power transmission, I now proudly announce, will be performed by a timing belt and the only opportunity for backlash will be between lead screws and nuts - and that will only matter upon slit carriage reset after the burn anyway.
But still - the chances of me getting all those many close-fit clearance holes and tapped holes I'm requesting that will hold this gizmo together are slightly less than nil - and despite not needing scores of bearing holes lining up properly, a few still need to.
My point being this - 1. There is no way this contraption will ever assemble properly and work right without being constructed from the precision-machined parts I have drawn up - and - 2. I live in a an apartment about as large as a walk-in closet and will never be able to fit a machine shop in here...
Anyway, I've been engaged in some dialog with Paul Markun at Tampa Technik machine shop and he has been not only very helpful with design advice but is willing to work with me on the price seeing as how this is not a corporate business venture and is in fact an ambitious hobby endeavor. So that's real good.
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Justin W
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
BTW, just clicked the link you put up and I gotta say: Sweet rig, man
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Jeffrey Weil
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
Hey Justin,
That little machine being eaten by the big one is not bad at all. I've owned one for a few years and did a lot of stuff on it. Its small but will do most everything a holographer needs with some creativity.
It will fit on a table in your apartment easily. The metal chips it makes would be a mess. But with a shopvac your good to go. Those come small too.
It weights about 100lbs and can be carried around without too much trouble. You could keep it on the closet floor and move it outside to work. This could not be done with my big one of course. Thats 1000 pounds.
I know exactly what your saying about things bolting together. When I first got the small mill I was amazed by the power of making 4 threaded holes on one piece and 4 countersunk holes on another and they would not only fit perfectly but you could even spin the part and use other holes and it still fits perfectly! Just like a "real" part. And thats the whole point. You can make real stuff. Just being able to line up holes and cut a slot alone makes the first machine would the money. And of course it can do a lot more.
Now, if you just need to drill perfectly you CAN do that on your dad's delta drill press. Really.
What you need to do is get a small x-y table for the press. Put your part in there and use the handwheels to move the part an exact amount. You will have to deal with backlash, but some careful planning will totally remove that problem. Next get a set of center drills. Those are little stubby drills just to get it started. Then switch to a normal bit and your good to go. You could buy all that stuff for less than 100 bucks. and it will fit on the drill press table permently, no new space needed.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAK ... TPG=INLMK3
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... -390856429
This would do it for you. If you want to get even better you could put a digital readout on the table. Use a 20 dollar digital caliper and bolt it to the table.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... &category=
That would go on the long axis of the table a smaller one would go on the y axis.
with that on the table you wouldn't have to worry about backlash either. The handwheels with still have it but the digital caliper will only move with actual table motion. For drilling that would be almost as accurate as a milling machine. Not totally but more than close enough for screw holes to line up right. Real parts!
BTW, no machine can drill bearing holes perfectly with a drill bit. A drill bit bounces around in the very hole its drilling. You need to drill close to the final size and use a boreing bar or a reamer to make it really round. You could not use a boreing bar on the drill press, its not ridged enough but a reamer would work just fine.
For bolt holes and matching threaded holes a drill bit is fine. For a good press fit with a bearing you would want to ream.
Jeffrey Weil
NorthBeach Holography Inc.
That little machine being eaten by the big one is not bad at all. I've owned one for a few years and did a lot of stuff on it. Its small but will do most everything a holographer needs with some creativity.
It will fit on a table in your apartment easily. The metal chips it makes would be a mess. But with a shopvac your good to go. Those come small too.
It weights about 100lbs and can be carried around without too much trouble. You could keep it on the closet floor and move it outside to work. This could not be done with my big one of course. Thats 1000 pounds.
I know exactly what your saying about things bolting together. When I first got the small mill I was amazed by the power of making 4 threaded holes on one piece and 4 countersunk holes on another and they would not only fit perfectly but you could even spin the part and use other holes and it still fits perfectly! Just like a "real" part. And thats the whole point. You can make real stuff. Just being able to line up holes and cut a slot alone makes the first machine would the money. And of course it can do a lot more.
Now, if you just need to drill perfectly you CAN do that on your dad's delta drill press. Really.
What you need to do is get a small x-y table for the press. Put your part in there and use the handwheels to move the part an exact amount. You will have to deal with backlash, but some careful planning will totally remove that problem. Next get a set of center drills. Those are little stubby drills just to get it started. Then switch to a normal bit and your good to go. You could buy all that stuff for less than 100 bucks. and it will fit on the drill press table permently, no new space needed.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAK ... TPG=INLMK3
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... -390856429
This would do it for you. If you want to get even better you could put a digital readout on the table. Use a 20 dollar digital caliper and bolt it to the table.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/p ... &category=
That would go on the long axis of the table a smaller one would go on the y axis.
with that on the table you wouldn't have to worry about backlash either. The handwheels with still have it but the digital caliper will only move with actual table motion. For drilling that would be almost as accurate as a milling machine. Not totally but more than close enough for screw holes to line up right. Real parts!
BTW, no machine can drill bearing holes perfectly with a drill bit. A drill bit bounces around in the very hole its drilling. You need to drill close to the final size and use a boreing bar or a reamer to make it really round. You could not use a boreing bar on the drill press, its not ridged enough but a reamer would work just fine.
For bolt holes and matching threaded holes a drill bit is fine. For a good press fit with a bearing you would want to ream.
Jeffrey Weil
NorthBeach Holography Inc.
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JohnFP
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
I did a search for "Visual Basic Commands" and came up with this.
http://www.5starsupport.com/info/vb.htm
http://www.5starsupport.com/info/vb.htm
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holo_cyware
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
Firstly, I'm really glad that somebody else wants to do what I've been planning to do for years.
My approach is to use a 15" LCD screen (1024x768 native res.), allowing holograms up to 12x9 inches and a flatbed scanner as the slit carier (can be controlled easy via the PC). Sorry to say that but farting around with God knows what custom hardware as the photoframes are is too difficult.
I'm a computer programmer and I know I can write a piece of software that would create the slideshow and the slit squence I need.
For now, I'm about get (in a few days) the laser (532 nm single mode, coherence of about 1m), and I'm working on the holo lab (in a basement). I already have the screen (two actually; I hope that DeFreitas idea of using the second screen as a "slit generator" will work. Must give it a try...)
My approach is to use a 15" LCD screen (1024x768 native res.), allowing holograms up to 12x9 inches and a flatbed scanner as the slit carier (can be controlled easy via the PC). Sorry to say that but farting around with God knows what custom hardware as the photoframes are is too difficult.
I'm a computer programmer and I know I can write a piece of software that would create the slideshow and the slit squence I need.
For now, I'm about get (in a few days) the laser (532 nm single mode, coherence of about 1m), and I'm working on the holo lab (in a basement). I already have the screen (two actually; I hope that DeFreitas idea of using the second screen as a "slit generator" will work. Must give it a try...)
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Ed Wesly
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
It would be a surprise if the contrast of the LCD would be as opaque as a piece of metal!
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holo_cyware
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
Yes, that's what I'm afraid of, especially because I already tested the laser against some polarized sheet and some light (maybe less that 1%) would still escape. Enough to ruin (by overexposing) the hologram though.
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Justin W
Jpeg displayer for stereograms?
JohnFP wrote:I did a search for "Visual Basic Commands" and came up with this.
http://www.5starsupport.com/info/vb.htm
Thanks, John
