Greetings from Greece, holographers.
I am new to holography, I have been 'sneaking around' the forum and anything else I could find on holography for a year now. I have got a box of PFG-01 with JD2 and an Integraf laser diode. I have made a few Dennisyuk, the transmission ones are quite ok, the reflection ones not too bright. Some sites mension that pfg-01 is no good for reflection holos. Can I expect good results? What is your experience? Could someone perhaps post a photo of a reflection dennisyuk on pfg-01 so that I know what to aim for?
When making an image hologram you make a transmission hologram right? You place the object and the film at 2F? I tried this, I put a white card in the film holder and could see the object upside down. But no hologram came out of this. This kind of hologram is wieved in white light like a reflection holo is'nt it? Or you shine the light through it? I tried to shine laser light through it, and I think the object is way in there but so dim that i am not sure. So my question is, do I place both the object and the film at 2F, 1F or somewhere else?
Hope someone can help, thanks in advance.
Needs help on image hologram
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BobH
Needs help on image hologram
The image can be at 2F if you want it to be the same size as the object, which then needs to also be at 2F. Other distances just give other image sizes and locations. Your object is what the film "sees" through the lens. The viewing zone will always be limited by the diameter of the lens used to project the image into the film plane.
A small diameter lens gives a very restricted viewing zone, maybe too small for both eyes to see through durring reconstruction. A large diameter lens, perhaps let's say 250mm diameter, gives a viewing zone the same as a 250mm diameter "master" hologram (an "H1").
The geometry probably is not why you're getting dim results. That's probably air currents, vibrating or settling components, or stability of the plate and/or plateholder.
Lighting the hologram depends on how you made it. If the reference beam was on the same side as the imaging lens, it's a transmission hologram. If the reference beam is on the opposite side from the imaging lens, it's a reflection hologram. The transmission image will be white near the film plane (+/- about 20mm) if lit by white light, red if lit by red light. the reflection image color will depend on how the color used to make it, material shrinkage, and color of light used to reconstruct it. Viewing zone issues are the same for both cases.
A small diameter lens gives a very restricted viewing zone, maybe too small for both eyes to see through durring reconstruction. A large diameter lens, perhaps let's say 250mm diameter, gives a viewing zone the same as a 250mm diameter "master" hologram (an "H1").
The geometry probably is not why you're getting dim results. That's probably air currents, vibrating or settling components, or stability of the plate and/or plateholder.
Lighting the hologram depends on how you made it. If the reference beam was on the same side as the imaging lens, it's a transmission hologram. If the reference beam is on the opposite side from the imaging lens, it's a reflection hologram. The transmission image will be white near the film plane (+/- about 20mm) if lit by white light, red if lit by red light. the reflection image color will depend on how the color used to make it, material shrinkage, and color of light used to reconstruct it. Viewing zone issues are the same for both cases.
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Viking
Needs help on image hologram
Thanks for your reply Bob. I hope to find time this weekend to try again. Now I know my setup should work and that I can go for a transmission image hologram as well. Wish me luck!
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Colin Kaminski
Needs help on image hologram
I can make reflection holograms on PFG-01 that are almost as bright as the better films. It is possible.
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Viking
Needs help on image hologram
Hi Colin
Have you had succes with Dennisyuk reflection holos on pfg-01?
Have you had succes with Dennisyuk reflection holos on pfg-01?
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Colin Kaminski
Needs help on image hologram
Yes! I have had much success. Not as bright as Tom's BB640 holograms but very close. And the film is very easy. I like to over-expose and under develop to get the right brightness. I have made more than 200 exposures. Many of them I am quite proud of. Use bright objects, develop to density not time and try for short development times. I shoot for 45 seconds to 1 minute. Soak in TEA before exposere and use a non shrinking bleach for brightest results.
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Viking
Needs help on image hologram
Hi Colin
Thanks a lot for the advice. Do you know if the bleach that comes with the JD-2 kit is a non shrinking one? You expose for 45 to 60 sec on what laser power?
I have read that you can use a sugar substitute instead of TEA, it is supposed to work the same. Is this true? It will be a lot easier to find here in Greece than TEA.
Thanks a lot for the advice. Do you know if the bleach that comes with the JD-2 kit is a non shrinking one? You expose for 45 to 60 sec on what laser power?
I have read that you can use a sugar substitute instead of TEA, it is supposed to work the same. Is this true? It will be a lot easier to find here in Greece than TEA.
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Colin Kaminski
Needs help on image hologram
When exposing for 45 seconds that would be with a <5mw diode laser. I have higher powered lasers as well. I use TEA to increase the sensitivity of the film more than to pre-swell the film. Sugar only is for post swelling. If you don't have TEA make sure to get the film wet, squegee, settle and then shoot. For a non-shrinking look up the Phillips Ferric EDTA bleach on the wiki. It works well.