Hello, my hologram is visible but still some problem.
I am using Lasos 50 mW lasers with 5 MHz linewidth
This is my setup
Size 7"x 9" Exposure time is 90 minute, 10 minute in Dark, 3 minute Fixer, 5 minute water, 2 minute 59%ipp, 2 minute 84% ipp, 3 minute 99% ipp
I can see diffraction after put the plate in 84% for 2 minute and full plate in 99% for 10 sec but after I dry the plate the top part disappear but the emulsion still there.
Improvement on my project
Re: Improvement on my project
As you can see the right part has no image on it
Is my exposure time too long? 51mw size5”x7”in 7x9plate
My image still blure is it because they have some movement occur while exposing?
Also my image has limited view cannot see from the side.
Is my exposure time too long? 51mw size5”x7”in 7x9plate
My image still blure is it because they have some movement occur while exposing?
Also my image has limited view cannot see from the side.
Re: Improvement on my project
Please post links to videos, it's hard to diagnose a picture of a hologram. I recommend making smaller holograms as well.
But if you want to calculate the exposure for 5" x 7" inch (17.78cm x 12.7cm) hologram:
17.78cm * 12.7cm = ~225cm^2
50mW / 225cm^2 = Each cm^2 gets 0.222mW per second, or 0.222mJ
DCG sensitivity @ 532nm is 200mJ/cm^2
200mJ/cm^2 / 0.222mJ = ~900 seconds = 15 minutes
To compensate for light losses, add 25%, so say 20 minutes.
I think I did the math correctly?
Log all your developing steps (amount of time, temperature, concentration, etc.)
Making sure your subject doesn't move for such a long amount of time is difficult. Start small and work your way up.
But if you want to calculate the exposure for 5" x 7" inch (17.78cm x 12.7cm) hologram:
17.78cm * 12.7cm = ~225cm^2
50mW / 225cm^2 = Each cm^2 gets 0.222mW per second, or 0.222mJ
DCG sensitivity @ 532nm is 200mJ/cm^2
200mJ/cm^2 / 0.222mJ = ~900 seconds = 15 minutes
To compensate for light losses, add 25%, so say 20 minutes.
I think I did the math correctly?
Log all your developing steps (amount of time, temperature, concentration, etc.)
Making sure your subject doesn't move for such a long amount of time is difficult. Start small and work your way up.
Re: Improvement on my project
Hello
Last time is not going well.So I go back to basic the Coin, I start with 30min but it not that good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC6fdj_2hM8
Today I decide to do a test strip 20 30 50 70 90 100 min
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeoPNOh8QN0
but the out come is not very impress, compare to the small one. brighter and sharper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8As5vZkGeU
Last time is not going well.So I go back to basic the Coin, I start with 30min but it not that good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC6fdj_2hM8
Today I decide to do a test strip 20 30 50 70 90 100 min
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeoPNOh8QN0
but the out come is not very impress, compare to the small one. brighter and sharper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8As5vZkGeU
Last edited by Zeta on Thu May 03, 2018 1:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Improvement on my project
This Is my set up
My object
My out come 60min
Super dim and only top of the lens is visible Does the subject material affect exposure time?
My object
My out come 60min
Super dim and only top of the lens is visible Does the subject material affect exposure time?
Re: Improvement on my project
My first guess is poor stability of the setup. If anything slightly wobbles when you touch the setup, then forget 60 minutes exposures. Avoid plastics. The wooden board looks too thin. Avoid tall legs freely standing on a surface. Try to put the glass on four rather than three pins and fix it somehow. To avoid air currents, put the whole stack made of the object and the glass into a box with wide enough window that lets laser light in.
Re: Improvement on my project
Some points:
Your reference beam is "dirty" as indicated by light and dark banding.
I assume that your beam steering mirror is first surface coated and not just a normal mirror???
Otherwise the banding may be caused by inter surface reflection in your lens beam expander.
You may be better off replacing the lens beam expander with a small first surface coated concave mirror.
One other advantage of using a concave mirror, is that you will have less light loss, but you will have to find the sweet spot for a clean beam.
I assume that you have done some basic checks on your laser using a simple interferometer setup, to find out how long it takes to warm up?
Settling time:
You must give enough time for both the plate and object to get to a stable state before making an exposure.
For the long exposures needed for DCG, temperature is going to have the biggest influence on stability, assuming the laser is stable.
Mechanical stability is relatively easy and inexpensive to achieve.
I usually set up the objects 24 hours before making an exposure.
This is to allow enough time for any heat that has been transferred from my hand to the object to dissipate into the environment.
It also helps to have the objects stored in the same room that the exposure takes place, several days in advance.
Wearing a pair of lint free gloves, or using tweezers to place objects helps to reduce heat transfer.
I also wear the gloves when placing the plate on the setup. I normally allow a couple of hours for the plate's temperature to normalize before
exposure. Oh, and as lobaz said above, avoid using plastic objects. They are not stable enough for the long exposures used for DCG.
I assume that the "setup" - object stand and plate mount are stable?
I guess that the "wooden board" is made of aluminium or steel and just looks like wood due to the light and dark banding.
It's on the thin side, but it should work, mine is made of 8mm thick Aluminium.
It would be better if you could isolate it from any vibrations if you can, but much depends on the noise environment.
The advantage of using a thicker base plate, apart from its better mechanical stability, is that it takes longer to contract and expand with changing air temperature.
My setup is sitting on a large 11mm thick steel plate that is isolated from the coffee table that it sits on, with a couple of partially inflated bicycle inner tubes. I guess that the steel plate weighs 25Kg or more. You could do something similar, but on a smaller scale.
"Does the subject material affect exposure time?"
Yes. I normally aim for about 150mJ or so total exposure (ref+obj beams).
I don't over worry about this though, but if I'm shooting a bunch of bright coins, I can reduce the exposure time.
HTH,
Steven.
Your reference beam is "dirty" as indicated by light and dark banding.
I assume that your beam steering mirror is first surface coated and not just a normal mirror???
Otherwise the banding may be caused by inter surface reflection in your lens beam expander.
You may be better off replacing the lens beam expander with a small first surface coated concave mirror.
One other advantage of using a concave mirror, is that you will have less light loss, but you will have to find the sweet spot for a clean beam.
I assume that you have done some basic checks on your laser using a simple interferometer setup, to find out how long it takes to warm up?
Settling time:
You must give enough time for both the plate and object to get to a stable state before making an exposure.
For the long exposures needed for DCG, temperature is going to have the biggest influence on stability, assuming the laser is stable.
Mechanical stability is relatively easy and inexpensive to achieve.
I usually set up the objects 24 hours before making an exposure.
This is to allow enough time for any heat that has been transferred from my hand to the object to dissipate into the environment.
It also helps to have the objects stored in the same room that the exposure takes place, several days in advance.
Wearing a pair of lint free gloves, or using tweezers to place objects helps to reduce heat transfer.
I also wear the gloves when placing the plate on the setup. I normally allow a couple of hours for the plate's temperature to normalize before
exposure. Oh, and as lobaz said above, avoid using plastic objects. They are not stable enough for the long exposures used for DCG.
I assume that the "setup" - object stand and plate mount are stable?
I guess that the "wooden board" is made of aluminium or steel and just looks like wood due to the light and dark banding.
It's on the thin side, but it should work, mine is made of 8mm thick Aluminium.
It would be better if you could isolate it from any vibrations if you can, but much depends on the noise environment.
The advantage of using a thicker base plate, apart from its better mechanical stability, is that it takes longer to contract and expand with changing air temperature.
My setup is sitting on a large 11mm thick steel plate that is isolated from the coffee table that it sits on, with a couple of partially inflated bicycle inner tubes. I guess that the steel plate weighs 25Kg or more. You could do something similar, but on a smaller scale.
"Does the subject material affect exposure time?"
Yes. I normally aim for about 150mJ or so total exposure (ref+obj beams).
I don't over worry about this though, but if I'm shooting a bunch of bright coins, I can reduce the exposure time.
HTH,
Steven.
Success through failure - the amateur DCG holographer's path to enlightenment.
Re: Improvement on my project
Update
This time 20 min
https://youtu.be/zvC81IgO_QA
60min is dimmer I have change the mirror and the banding pattern is change rotate mirror banding is also change 90 is like a wave ~~~~ 45 //// 0 ||||
This time 20 min
https://youtu.be/zvC81IgO_QA
60min is dimmer I have change the mirror and the banding pattern is change rotate mirror banding is also change 90 is like a wave ~~~~ 45 //// 0 ||||
Re: Improvement on my project
Before mirror
After mirror
After mirror
Re: Improvement on my project
By the looks of it, you're not using a first surface mirror. There should be no gap between your fingernail and the reflection.
I'm not 100% sure what the consequences of not using first surface mirrors is, but it can't be good!
I'm not 100% sure what the consequences of not using first surface mirrors is, but it can't be good!