photomaterials&holograms
Forum rules
Finding new homes for holography-related items is encouraged. Even commercial enterprises with goods to offer are welcome as long as it is in the spirit of members helping members. If a for-sale post reads like an infomercial, though, you have probably crossed the line of acceptability.
Finding new homes for holography-related items is encouraged. Even commercial enterprises with goods to offer are welcome as long as it is in the spirit of members helping members. If a for-sale post reads like an infomercial, though, you have probably crossed the line of acceptability.
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Sphere-S
photomaterials&holograms
We have in stock green sensitive, red sensitive films for holography and film sensitive to the whole spectrum. Also dichromated gelatine holograms are available.
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John Klayer
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2015 2:28 am
photomaterials&holograms
Tell us some more.
photomaterials&holograms
yes can we get more details about your films?
photomaterials&holograms
Although not a duly deputized agent of Sphere-S, I got to use a sample of what was marked on the box as GEO-3, and I really like it! I got very bright images at 633 nm and 532 nm with it.
My processing scheme is to follow the JARB scheme of the JD-4 kit on the developing side. Fornicate that formaldehyde hardener bath! I first soak the plate for 15 to 30 seconds in cold running tap water, about 15C, and have been very religious about developing at 18C.
The JD-4 kit mentions 15” immersion time, but my results were inconsistent, so I went to 30”. I ran test strips with the same exposure series times and developed for 1 and 2 minutes, but the results were not as bright and were getting noisy!
I didn’t use the CuSo4 bleach in the JD-4 kit but the following: 2 g Potassium Dichromate, 2 mL Sulfuric Acid, and 30 g KBr. I had this brew mixed while using a green sensitive emulsion to destroy the orange-colored green-sensitizing dye, and this left the plate, which seems to be quite dark during exposure, totally clear.
No squeegeeing, no alcohol baths, just cold wash water, Photo-Flo and air drying. I hope this stuff becomes available and inexpensive, as this is just what we need in this day and age!
I must warn you though, it does require a lot of photons, like 3000 microJoules per square centimeter, but if you are patient and stable you will really fall in love with this emulsion!
My processing scheme is to follow the JARB scheme of the JD-4 kit on the developing side. Fornicate that formaldehyde hardener bath! I first soak the plate for 15 to 30 seconds in cold running tap water, about 15C, and have been very religious about developing at 18C.
The JD-4 kit mentions 15” immersion time, but my results were inconsistent, so I went to 30”. I ran test strips with the same exposure series times and developed for 1 and 2 minutes, but the results were not as bright and were getting noisy!
I didn’t use the CuSo4 bleach in the JD-4 kit but the following: 2 g Potassium Dichromate, 2 mL Sulfuric Acid, and 30 g KBr. I had this brew mixed while using a green sensitive emulsion to destroy the orange-colored green-sensitizing dye, and this left the plate, which seems to be quite dark during exposure, totally clear.
No squeegeeing, no alcohol baths, just cold wash water, Photo-Flo and air drying. I hope this stuff becomes available and inexpensive, as this is just what we need in this day and age!
I must warn you though, it does require a lot of photons, like 3000 microJoules per square centimeter, but if you are patient and stable you will really fall in love with this emulsion!
"We're the flowers in the dustbin" Sex Pistols
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Sphere-S
photomaterials&holograms
It was really nice to hear such a positive comment for our product! I think you bought those plates through Geola. Also we have film with the same emulsion. Our usual processing is developing in SM-6 and bleaching in PBU-amidol. Have you tried it?
photomaterials&holograms
Hi,
I suggest you send Ed Wesley some samples of the various plates along with recommended processing instructions. H
e is very experienced and will post the results here; then for sure others wil buy, Best, Phil 142laser
I suggest you send Ed Wesley some samples of the various plates along with recommended processing instructions. H
e is very experienced and will post the results here; then for sure others wil buy, Best, Phil 142laserphotomaterials&holograms
I sent their own sample of the film VE and VES for Ed Wesley, he reported its opinion on old forum, hope and on this new forum he will report the results a test.
Valery
Valery
photomaterials&holograms
"I sent their own sample of the film VE and VES for Ed Wesley, he reported its opinion on old forum, hope and on this new forum he will report the results a test."
Unfortunately I have not tested Valery's film yet, as I don't really have a good film holder. On the other hand, it is so easy to shoot plates, which is why I was quicker on reporting on the Sphere-S materials. Sorry for the delay.
"Our usual processing is developing in SM-6 and bleaching in PBU-amidol. Have you tried it?"
"I sent their own sample of the film VE and VES for Ed Wesley, he reported its opinion on old forum, hope and on this new forum he will report the results a test."
Unfortunately I have not tested Valery's film yet, as I don't really have a good film holder. On the other hand, it is so easy to shoot plates, which is why I was quicker on reporting on the Sphere-S materials.
"Our usual processing is developing in SM-6 and bleaching in PBU-amidol. Have you tried it?"
SM-6 was the first developer I tried with these plates, and the results were less than wonderful. I used a Fe EDTA bleach, not PBU-Amidol, which I would suspect would yield similar results. And then there were awful drying marks, and the images were not too bright.
I described the situation to Stas at Geola, and he suggested adding formaldehyde to the developer, Hans Bjelkhagen said use the Hardening pre-bath like for PFG-03M, plus Stas also suggested using alcohol rinsing baths to make sure that there were no drying marks. Although I have the ingredients, and a perfect darkroom with ventilation, I don’t feel comfortable with using these things, only if I have to as a last resort.
But TJ, Dr. Tung Jeong, had been telling me for years about just using cold water before developing PFG-03M for only 15” in JD-4, and using that cold also, I am using 15C or 65F, and all other baths cold. So I tried that regime because that would be the easiest to implement, (who wants to deal with formaldehyde and alcohol!) and incredibly enough, it gave me the desired results!
Bright, low noise holos. The replay color was exact laser color, as I could replace the test strips back onto the object and see a shadow caused by the hologram stealing replay light, and even generate real time interference fringes.
I was not getting consistent results with that short of a developing time, 15”, so I ran test exposure series from 800 to 6400 microJoules/cm2 by stops on 4 plates, developing them for 15”, 30”, 60” and 120”, 30” development time was as bright as any of them, but 60” and 120” development times were getting noisy. So I have adopted 30” as my official developing time at the above-mentioned temperature.
I did buy some Amidol from Photographers’ Formulary just to see how that bleach would compare, but haven’t mixed it yet, as that would also force me to mix up the hardener and add an alcohol bath to my processing regime. The bleach I am using, as mentioned in the post above, I had used way back when 8E75HD first came out, and had it mixed up because I was shooting some green sensitive material and the orange colored sensitizer for green was not dissolving in the Fe-EDTA bleach, so I switched to the dichromate based one.
So I don’t know when I will be able to run those tests since I have a pretty hectic schedule, teaching 6 classes and taking one, so I will bounce the processing test back to you, Sphere-S. Give what I described a trial in your lab side by side with what you are currently using. You may need to expose more than normal, I would suggest monochromatic exposures first, (I am trying to make 5 color holograms (R, O, Y, G and Black) balancing my He-Ne and Yag, but first seeing how good each individual wavelength exposure gets) at the moment, when I do get lab time), for if you want to invade the rest of the world with this material you will find a lot of resistance from people because of the need for formaldehyde and alcohol.
“I suggest you send Ed Wesley some samples of the various plates along with recommended processing instructions. He is very experienced and will post the results here; then for sure others will buy, Best, Phil 142laser”
Sounds like a good idea to me!
Unfortunately I have not tested Valery's film yet, as I don't really have a good film holder. On the other hand, it is so easy to shoot plates, which is why I was quicker on reporting on the Sphere-S materials. Sorry for the delay.
"Our usual processing is developing in SM-6 and bleaching in PBU-amidol. Have you tried it?"
"I sent their own sample of the film VE and VES for Ed Wesley, he reported its opinion on old forum, hope and on this new forum he will report the results a test."
Unfortunately I have not tested Valery's film yet, as I don't really have a good film holder. On the other hand, it is so easy to shoot plates, which is why I was quicker on reporting on the Sphere-S materials.
"Our usual processing is developing in SM-6 and bleaching in PBU-amidol. Have you tried it?"
SM-6 was the first developer I tried with these plates, and the results were less than wonderful. I used a Fe EDTA bleach, not PBU-Amidol, which I would suspect would yield similar results. And then there were awful drying marks, and the images were not too bright.
I described the situation to Stas at Geola, and he suggested adding formaldehyde to the developer, Hans Bjelkhagen said use the Hardening pre-bath like for PFG-03M, plus Stas also suggested using alcohol rinsing baths to make sure that there were no drying marks. Although I have the ingredients, and a perfect darkroom with ventilation, I don’t feel comfortable with using these things, only if I have to as a last resort.
But TJ, Dr. Tung Jeong, had been telling me for years about just using cold water before developing PFG-03M for only 15” in JD-4, and using that cold also, I am using 15C or 65F, and all other baths cold. So I tried that regime because that would be the easiest to implement, (who wants to deal with formaldehyde and alcohol!) and incredibly enough, it gave me the desired results!
Bright, low noise holos. The replay color was exact laser color, as I could replace the test strips back onto the object and see a shadow caused by the hologram stealing replay light, and even generate real time interference fringes.
I was not getting consistent results with that short of a developing time, 15”, so I ran test exposure series from 800 to 6400 microJoules/cm2 by stops on 4 plates, developing them for 15”, 30”, 60” and 120”, 30” development time was as bright as any of them, but 60” and 120” development times were getting noisy. So I have adopted 30” as my official developing time at the above-mentioned temperature.
I did buy some Amidol from Photographers’ Formulary just to see how that bleach would compare, but haven’t mixed it yet, as that would also force me to mix up the hardener and add an alcohol bath to my processing regime. The bleach I am using, as mentioned in the post above, I had used way back when 8E75HD first came out, and had it mixed up because I was shooting some green sensitive material and the orange colored sensitizer for green was not dissolving in the Fe-EDTA bleach, so I switched to the dichromate based one.
So I don’t know when I will be able to run those tests since I have a pretty hectic schedule, teaching 6 classes and taking one, so I will bounce the processing test back to you, Sphere-S. Give what I described a trial in your lab side by side with what you are currently using. You may need to expose more than normal, I would suggest monochromatic exposures first, (I am trying to make 5 color holograms (R, O, Y, G and Black) balancing my He-Ne and Yag, but first seeing how good each individual wavelength exposure gets) at the moment, when I do get lab time), for if you want to invade the rest of the world with this material you will find a lot of resistance from people because of the need for formaldehyde and alcohol.
“I suggest you send Ed Wesley some samples of the various plates along with recommended processing instructions. He is very experienced and will post the results here; then for sure others will buy, Best, Phil 142laser”
Sounds like a good idea to me!
"We're the flowers in the dustbin" Sex Pistols
photomaterials&holograms
Hi Ed,
You are the man with the real Holography lab experience; if you are able to find processing tricks that avoid even some of the nasty chemicals that will keep everyone else alive longer.
How is your friend and mentor Dr. Jeong? Is he still active; he must be getting quite elderly. Now who needs a blue SLM laser doing 200 mW @ 479.5 nm... Best, Phil
You are the man with the real Holography lab experience; if you are able to find processing tricks that avoid even some of the nasty chemicals that will keep everyone else alive longer.
How is your friend and mentor Dr. Jeong? Is he still active; he must be getting quite elderly. Now who needs a blue SLM laser doing 200 mW @ 479.5 nm... Best, Phil-
Sphere-S
photomaterials&holograms
Dear Edd,
It is very interesting for us to try different types of processing to test and find out the most convenient one and discuss it with our colleagues. Could you give us the detailed recipe of JD-4 kit and Fe-EDTA bleach? We will mix them according your proportions and make several series of experiments.
Material (plates) which you tried had been developed by us together with XYZ and Geola for recording digital color pulsed reflection holograms. In the pulsed regime this material is more sensitive than when it is being recorded by the continuous wave lasers. To compare characteristics of the material we have continuous wave lasers such as He-Ne laser (633nm), Argon Innova 90 and Argon Spectrophysics lasers and pulsed RGB laser (30Hz, 440nm, 532nm, 660nm wavelength, 3-5mJ in one pulse). The material was created for that laser. Maximum sensitivity to the red region is 660 nm. Therefore sensitivity when He-Ne laser (633nm) is being used is lower than when pulsed laser (660nm) is being applied. That material was developed for recording color holograms therefore it should be bleached. Brightness of the image of such ultra fine-grained materials does not increase at bleaching. Usage of several sensitizers to create the material sensitive to the RGB region results in decreasing sensibility. If we sensitized it to one definite region of the spectrum (red, green or blue), its sensitivity would be considerably higher and its characteristics (diffraction efficiency) would be kept. If we need to create material sensitive to the red region of the spectrum (633nm) we have to apply other sensitizers.
Simultaneous usage of several sensitizers decreases sensitivity of definite wavelengths. Therefore to our mind it is good to have 2 materials for recording monochromatic holograms: one for recording with 633nm with bleaching or without bleaching and the other one is for recording with 488nm, 514nm, 532 nm.
It is very interesting for us to try different types of processing to test and find out the most convenient one and discuss it with our colleagues. Could you give us the detailed recipe of JD-4 kit and Fe-EDTA bleach? We will mix them according your proportions and make several series of experiments.
Material (plates) which you tried had been developed by us together with XYZ and Geola for recording digital color pulsed reflection holograms. In the pulsed regime this material is more sensitive than when it is being recorded by the continuous wave lasers. To compare characteristics of the material we have continuous wave lasers such as He-Ne laser (633nm), Argon Innova 90 and Argon Spectrophysics lasers and pulsed RGB laser (30Hz, 440nm, 532nm, 660nm wavelength, 3-5mJ in one pulse). The material was created for that laser. Maximum sensitivity to the red region is 660 nm. Therefore sensitivity when He-Ne laser (633nm) is being used is lower than when pulsed laser (660nm) is being applied. That material was developed for recording color holograms therefore it should be bleached. Brightness of the image of such ultra fine-grained materials does not increase at bleaching. Usage of several sensitizers to create the material sensitive to the RGB region results in decreasing sensibility. If we sensitized it to one definite region of the spectrum (red, green or blue), its sensitivity would be considerably higher and its characteristics (diffraction efficiency) would be kept. If we need to create material sensitive to the red region of the spectrum (633nm) we have to apply other sensitizers.
Simultaneous usage of several sensitizers decreases sensitivity of definite wavelengths. Therefore to our mind it is good to have 2 materials for recording monochromatic holograms: one for recording with 633nm with bleaching or without bleaching and the other one is for recording with 488nm, 514nm, 532 nm.